Ask ten jewellery brands what "gold-plated" means and most won't give you a straight number. That's not an accident. "Gold-plated" is a category, not a promise. The difference between a piece that holds its colour for years and one that wears through in a season comes down to two things almost nobody puts on the product page: the thickness of the gold, and what's underneath it.

The number that actually matters: microns

Plating thickness is measured in microns, thousandths of a millimetre. It's a small unit describing a very real difference.

Flash plating sits at roughly 0.05 to 0.175 microns. It's the industry default for low-cost, fast-turnover jewellery, and it's thin enough that normal wear (skin oils, moisture, friction against fabric) can wear through it within weeks or months, exposing the base metal underneath.

Standard plating, common in mid-range costume jewellery, usually lands around 0.5 microns. Better than flash, still thin enough to fade with regular wear.

Gold vermeil, by industry and FTC definition, requires a minimum of 2.5 microns of gold over a sterling silver base. It's the heaviest plating category that still counts as "plated" rather than solid gold.

We'd rather tell you the real number than round up to a category we haven't earned.

The base matters as much as the gold

Plating is only half the story. What's underneath it decides how well that plating holds, and what happens once it eventually wears.

Most affordable gold-plated jewellery is built on a brass or other base alloy. It's cheaper, but it holds plating less evenly, tends to discolour skin faster once the gold layer thins, and generally isn't worth re-plating later: the base itself isn't worth the cost of the process.

A sterling silver base changes that math. It's more compatible with sensitive skin, takes plating more evenly, and, practically, it's a base worth re-plating when the time comes, rather than jewellery that's designed to be replaced. Every GUILD piece is gold-plated sterling silver, not gold-plated alloy.

How to actually check, when it isn't your own data

You won't always get an XRF report. A few things you can check yourself:

• Ask for the micron thickness directly. A brand that knows its number will tell you. A brand that doesn't have one probably hasn't tested it.
• Check the base metal marking. A "925" stamp indicates sterling silver. No stamp, or a vague "gold-plated" with no base metal named, is usually alloy.
• Be skeptical of price as the only signal. Flash-plated pieces can be styled and priced to look like they're not. The number is the number.
• Expect some change over time, even with good plating. Even properly plated pieces will show gradual wear with years of daily contact: chlorine, perfume, and sweat all play a role. The difference is the timeline: months versus years.

Common questions

Does gold-plated jewellery tarnish?
The gold layer itself doesn't tarnish, but if it's thin enough to wear through, the base metal underneath can, which is what people are usually describing when they say plated jewellery "tarnished." Thicker plating over a silver base delays this significantly.

What's the difference between gold plated, gold vermeil, and gold filled?
Gold plated covers a range of thicknesses from flash (under 0.2 microns) up to heavier plating; gold vermeil is a regulated minimum of 2.5 microns over sterling silver; gold filled uses a much thicker, mechanically bonded layer of gold over a base metal, the most durable of the three, and priced accordingly.

How long does gold plating last?
It depends entirely on micron thickness and how the piece is worn and cared for. Flash-plated pieces can visibly wear within weeks of daily contact. Heavier plating over a silver base can hold its colour for years with reasonable care.

Is a sterling silver base actually better than alloy?
For comfort, plating retention, and the option to re-plate later: yes. Alloy bases are cheaper to produce but generally aren't worth re-plating once the gold layer wears through.

Gold plating isn't something to be precious about. It's a spec. Every Constant, Rising, and Ritual piece is built on the same standard: sterling silver, tested plating, and a number we're willing to publish.